“Longing for Arakan Land”

“Longing for Arakan Land”

Early winter has arrived. The image of pagodas standing gracefully on the hills and mounds through the misty haze is truly nostalgic. The meritorious works of our ancestors, who precisely cut and assembled stone blocks to build these places of worship, still live on in the hearts of Rakhine people as Mrauk U.

The victory flags waving on the massive palace walls reflect the grandeur of the past. The ancient brick foundations, ruined pagodas, small hills and mountain ranges, old moats, and still-living ancient moats that wind around – aren’t these the very symbols of Mrauk U? Even today, the blue and white lotus flowers from these ancient moats continue to faithfully make offerings to Mrauk U’s aged pagodas, ancient heritage, and old temples.

Early winter has come, and the stone stairways leading to the revered Shitthaung Temple are filled with pilgrims. Below the temple platform, rows of shops selling souvenirs and local crafts buzz with activity, as visitors from near and far make their way to pay homage. Yet, in this era overshadowed by war, hardships, and sorrows, the name “Mrauk U” evokes a deep and wistful longing.

When we spread out Mrauk U’s grandeur across our chest and examine it, the past is worthy of wistful admiration. In the final days of the Laymyo filled with warfare, Min Saw Mon was merely a coward and an adulterer. However, by the time he had washed away all past mistakes and stood up as a true hero, Min Saw Mon had grown old in age, mature in loving-kindness, and steadfast in loyalty.

“May my life be shortened but let the city’s life be extended” – this royal command echoed in the ears of ministers, generals, scholars, and nobles. It resonated on Mrauk U’s not-yet-urbanized hillsides and floated over its not-yet-historic rivers. Min Saw Mon is one of Mrauk U’s founding fathers. When speaking of Mrauk U, this hero is essential – he created Mrauk U’s modern history for the world. Looking back slightly further, King Min Ba Gyi, who built Mrauk U magnificently and strongly, is also indispensable. Kings Min Phalaung and Min Ra Gyi are also crucial. King Min Ba Gyi was the one who conquered Hanthawaddy. From then until King Maha Thamada, up to Mrauk U’s final days and until today, Mrauk U’s history cannot be completely told. The monk poets, lay poets, female poets, and heroes must be peacefully sheltering in Mrauk U’s shadows of the past.

Mrauk U is the pinnacle for those who love the land, the heart for those who love their race, the palace of heroes, and the sacred ground for revolutionaries. Mrauk U’s weathered stone structures represent the patriotic pride of revolutionaries, and its broken stone carvings are the national anthem of heroes. The throne of Mrauk U fell in 1146 ME, but Mrauk U itself never fell. Even if enemies could reduce Mrauk U to dust, just hearing its name gives birth to new heroes. Many heroes loyal to the nation have sacrificed themselves on this land.

Early winter has arrived. Mrauk U and winter are inseparably nostalgic. Whenever one looks through the mountain mist and haze, it seems as if all the pagodas and stupas are waiting for a golden future while enduring numerous present-day wounds and scars, along with the grandeur of history.

The present winter in Mrauk U is bone-chillingly cold. It won’t be easy for the civilians who have become victims of conflict to endure this winter. In the land of the Rakhine people, where there are refugee camps and displaced people, a thin blanket, or some shelter, or a warm coat will be urgently needed for this winter.

Unlike before, when pilgrims would come to pay homage to the sacred monuments during early winter, it’s not easy for people to visit Mrauk U this winter. While struggling hard for their daily survival, they will likely pay their respects to the golden city of Mrauk U from afar. With early winter, Mrauk U’s local produce is abundant. Laymyo buffalo milk is plentiful. Fresh water fish from the lakes are available. In the early morning, a serving of Tin War (steamed sticky rice roll) with a cup of tea brings contentment. When returning home, people would buy bundles of Tin War and Laymyo buffalo milk as souvenirs.

Along with early winter, Mrauk U’s palm juice is flowing abundantly. One can drink it either sweet or bitter. The bitter palm juice goes very well with grilled dried fish. Winter delicacies include fried water insects from the ruined lakes and moats where migratory birds flock, and fried crickets that are caught by digging the earth or using fire as bait.

Early winter has come. Mrauk U must be missing the pilgrim buses and travelers. Similarly, there must be land-loving people who are longing for Mrauk U from afar for various reasons. However, Mrauk U already exists in our hearts.

At some time not too far away, I wish to meet with parents, teachers, friends, and acquaintances in Mrauk U’s winter. When that time comes, like Siberian birds flying in flocks, let us reunite in Mrauk U’s embrace and rebuild our father’s land with abundant love and kindness.